Snorkel Trip in the Bahamas

© Jennifer W. Miner

May 17, 2006

When seasoned snorkelers and scuba divers recommend their picks of where to snorkel, I've found it best to take their advice.


The Atlantis resort on Paradise Island is the archetypal all-inclusive resort. The aquariums, casino, pools and plentiful dining options guarantee that all your travel dollars can be spent at one place. There's even "Club Rush," a faux nightclub place for teenagers (no one over 17 allowed). From what I saw, it seems that the age limit had the effect of keeping away the 15 and 16 year-olds as well, so Club Rush was predominantly filled with tweens and prebubescent teens feigning nonchalance and tossing their hair. Good times.

An architecturally encircled all-inclusive resort has its drawbacks, however: At least for me, it began to feel artificial. I wanted to swim in some real open water, not the anesthetized environment of Atlantis. I've always enjoyed snorkeling in the past, and so my husband and I decided to book a half-day snorkel trip. The hotel lobbies display pamphlets from independent contractors who supply scuba and snorkel equipment, included with boat rides to assorted local reefs. We basically chose one at random -- maybe the one closest to the fruit basket, who knows -- and called to reserve our place on that company's boat.

We had already decided, on the advice of other vacationers, that we would go to either Rose Island Reefs, or Goulding Reef Cays. Those two options were said to have the best and more varied fish. However, when we scanned down the names of scuba/snorkel options, one stood out: Booby Rock Channel. Booby Rock! How could we pass on a name like that? So we changed our plans.

The way out to Nassau Harbor on the motorboat was typical: Experienced scuba divers sizing each other up, honeymooners being a little embarrassing, and Old Marrieds like us making small talk. Oh, you're from Philly? My cousin lives there, etc. But when the captain cut the engine and began the standard spiel regarding water safely, I had a hard time believing we were already at our destination. Bobbing up and down in the wakes of other boats, we were not in what I'd consider a prime coral reef habitat. And I was right; Booby Rock is a rock, that may at one point have had boobies on it. (It's a kind of bird, wise guy.)

What happened next? The boat operator actually threw some dog kibble into the water to attract fish! I have never had to swim in dog food before, and I don't recommend it. The fish must have known the drill, since they came quickly for their brunch. There were a few squirrel fish, a bunch of silvery grey jobs and a smallish barracuda. Nonetheless, most reef fish are too shy to come to the surface, even when tempted by delicious lamb meal & rice flavored kibble. The scuba divers among us reported that around 20 or 30 feet down, the coral attached to Booby Rock and an old junked boat did provide some interest; tropical fish like queen parrotfish, sergeant majors, and wrasses darting among staghorn coral and sea anemones. For those of us stuck paddling amid the kibble, however, it was at best a unique experience. I hope it remains that way.


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