Where are the best sushi restaurants in the country? The answer may surprise you.
The two best Japanese sushi restaurants in America are not in New York or Beverly Hills. They are on Ventura Boulevard, in the San Fernando Valley.
A late-night TV writer I know flies out from NYC to Los Angeles specifically to get his sushi fix, because he knows what true foodies know; the second place in the world where seafood chefs get to pick from the day's best catch is Los Angeles (the first is Japan, of course). It follows, then, that the best sushi restaurants in the country are in Southern California. But while Matsuhisa and Nobu get the most buzz -- and, run by Nobu Matsuhisa, they are outstanding -- the TV writer follows others in the know right past Beverly Hills and Hollywood, and into the Valley.
Katsu-ya, at 16542 Ventura Blvd in Encino, looks unimposing, to say the least. Who would expect that one of the best Japanese restaurants in the country would be found in a slightly run-down strip mall, next to a Curves gym? Don't let the unglamorous setting deter you. Inside, you'll find intimate tables and a clean, no-nonsense sushi bar. I strongly recommend trying the toro and the crispy spicy tuna roll. If, like the aforementioned TV writer, you are a sushi aficionado, you will also consider them worth flying 3,000 miles for! Rather than Asian music, this slightly unconventional restaurant pipes in soft rock such as the Beatles and Paul Simon.
My other favorite Japanese restaurant, Kazu Sushi, is also in the Valley, at 11440 Ventura Blvd, Studio City. Unlike Katsu-ya, the interior is absolutely lovely, with a minimalist design, highly lacquered sushi bar and feng-shui placement of small Japanese statues. The tuna carpaccio and toro tartare are heaven. For the diner that doesn't consider spicy tuna rolls and California rolls a prerequisite of every sushi meal, try the omakase. It means, "chef's choice," and like the name implies, the chef will create many small dishes presented one at a time. A culinary surprise, every five minutes, is a both a treat and a luxury not to be missed.
Katsu-ya Sushi has larger portions than I've come to expect, while Kazu Sushi's are somewhat smaller. Both restaurants are relatively inexpensive, especially compared to Urasawa, that $500-a-head place on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. For sightseers and the fans of popular culture, there is another important difference. At Nobu, Matsuhita and Urasawa, B- and C-level stars often come to be photographed by the paparazzi. The A-list stars, who don't need the publicity and just want to enjoy the country's best sushi, dine in peace at Katsu-ya and Kazu Sushi.
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Comments
Apr 24, 2006 9:08 PM
Dan Florio
:
I have found the same kind of thing - that often the little hidden places are the best. Sometimes they have just lousy exteriors but they hide a great menu and excellent food inside.
Even though I am not a sushi fan, I enjoyed your article. The rules apply to all kinds of places! Mexican food is often just like that, too.
Apr 25, 2006 1:05 PM
Jennifer W. Miner
:
Thanks, Dan. I must say, this past weekend's "research" was really fun! Maybe I should convince my hubby that an appropriate article for Mother's day should feature comparing different airlines' first class seatings, or diamonds versus pearls, etc etc. ;) Jennifer Miner
Apr 25, 2006 2:25 PM
Jill Florio
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Hmmm, I agree. I know I'd read them. We just have to convince the planes and jewelery stores to give you comps.
I would think a comparison of swedish vs. acupressure massage would be a great line of therapy...er, research...folllowed by whether French Wines are better than Sonoma wines...hmmmm...I want your job... :)
Jun 9, 2006 4:11 PM
Jennifer W. Miner
:
So, last night for dinner, my spouse let me pick a restaurant, and naturally I picked Japanese. We went to one in Brentwood named Takao, and it was really delicious. As we're enjoying the meal, Dave mentions that he had a work lunch at <a href="http://luxuryresorttravel.suite101.com/blog.cfm/1214">Yu-n-Mi Sushi</a> earlier that day! :) He's going to have to start watching his mercury levels. Jen
Jun 10, 2006 6:59 PM
Jacqueline Church
:
Try Abe in Balboa Peninsula/Newport Beach. I've had amazing dinners there. Sushi chefs are absolutely expert. Will serve what you like in the order that enables best showcasing. Terrific sake list.
Once I had uni in Park City Utah. Yes, I know, landlocked, but they were flying in uni from Santa Barbara each day. Unbelieveable.
One of the best memories was of a tiny sushi-ya across the street from Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo which my mother's friend brought us to. Everything we ate had been swimming hours before. Service at a good sushi bar also elevates the experience to a level most of us here never get to experience.
Kampai!
Jun 12, 2006 2:28 PM
Jennifer W. Miner
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I'll be sure to try to get there the next time I'm in Orange County. Thanks for the tip! :)
Jun 12, 2006 2:36 PM
Jill Florio
:
I had a friend once take me to a Sushi place in Santa Monica that had little pretty plates of sushi that went past on a conveyor belt, and it snaked the plates all around the restaurant. Everything looked so neat - like wrapped packages. Or like colorful bubble bar slices from Lush, or something. It was a trip. Have you been there, Jen?
Jun 13, 2006 9:57 AM
Jennifer W. Miner
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That would have to be Kaitan Sushi, on the 3rd Street Promenade. I always have fun there! The sake isn't so great (you can tell when a place tried to push the hot sake rather than the cold - off flavors are masked by the heat), but Kaitan has pretty creative sushi chefs. Mostly rolls, which is like Sushi For Beginners. :) And for a place that looks fasst-food-like, the sushi is surprisingly good. :) Jen
Dec 10, 2007 6:11 PM
NipponNeh
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Jennifer, YOU MUST BE KIDDING!
If you are so brazen as to suggest that you know what the best sushi in the country is, at least provide some meaningful data to support your claim. Suggesting that 'toro' is really great at one spot and 'sushi rolls' are great is a clear indication of a lack of knowledge and experience. In addition, when you suggest that portions are larger at one venue and smaller at the other, if you are still referring to sushi, the subject of your article, then I hope you are NOT referring to the size of a piece of sushi.
Allow me to educate you:
Sushi, as it is made in Japan and at high quality restaurants in the US, is meant to be bite-sized. One piece, one bite, without making you look like you have a big wad of chewing tobacco in your mouth. This is the key to SIZE, and the first of the critical criteria for good sushi.
Sushi is also meant to exhibit BALANCE. The amount of fish or other food is to be balanced with the amount of rice. Too much rice or fish and the flavors are out of balance.
Sushi rice must be selected correctly (typically short grain, sometimes blending older and newer rice due to important characteristics of the sice itself. Hitomebore and Tamaki are two types of US grown rice that rival Japonica (Japanese) varieties. Even if the rice is of the proper quality, it must be cooked properly. I would say that in my experience, only about 1 in 10 Japanese restaurants cook their rice properly. Then there is the conversion of cooked rice into sushi rice, again a process that is fraught with challenges and missed by a majority of restaurants. This is where BALANCE comes to fore once more, in the balance of the components of sushi rice both for flavor and texture or moistness. Finally there is temperature. The rice should warm the fish slightly to bring out the oils and the flavor, but it should not be so warm or wet as to make the cori soggy. If you want to experience this first-hand, visit Sushi Yasuda in New York City and ask Yasuda-san about his rice.
Now we come to the non-rice elements of sushi. Each item must be selected carefully for freshness and flavor. I can't tell you how many restaurants I have visited that serve fish with little or no flavor because the chefs are poor or their cost is lower or the customers are not discerning enough. You mention toro as though it is one item. Do you know how many varieties and qualities of toro exist? dozens. hundreds. Have you had toro that literally melted i
Feb 22, 2008 1:27 PM
Hans Hedberg
:
If you go to Whistler for a ski holiday in Canada, you must try Sushi Village. I've travelled around the world and have yet to eat sushi so good! The fish literally melts in your mouth. Be sure to order the Ahi Poke and a couple jugs of Saki Margarita!